Assorted Koi Carp

Assorted Koi Carp

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Cyprinus carpio

Note: Due to variations within species, your item may not look identical
to the image provided




Eastern Asia

Sexual Dimorphism

In fish over 25cm (10?) females will be fuller
bellied, whereas males will remain more streamlined. Males ready to spawn
will develop breeding tubercles on the head & pectoral fins.

Maximum Size

90cm (35.4?)

Water Parameters

Neutral to alkaline conditions preferred. pH:
7.0-8.5, dH: up to 25 degrees.


2-30 deg C (36-86 deg F)


Large fish community


No special requirements



The ornamental koi that we know and love today are
descended from the Black Common Carp or ?Magoi? (Cyprinus carpio). Over the
centuries, these majestic fish have been line bred for numerous colour
mutations, leading to some quite outstanding varieties. Koi are always best
kept in a pond situation, especially if they are to reach their full growth
potential through exercise gained by swimming. The pond should be at LEAST
4ft/1.2m deep (6ft/1.8m or more is better) and also as long and wide as
possible to give a large surface area for oxygen exchange. In colder climates,
it is important to consider the depth of the pond because of seasonal
temperature fluctuations; rapid changes in temperature will distress koi. The
deeper your pond is in proportion to the surface area, the less susceptible it
will be to swings in temperature. A larger volume of water is also, of course,
much more stable in terms of water parameters than a smaller one. A pond heater
is definitely worth considering for the winter months for those in colder
climes. There is much that should be planned out thoroughly beforehand, such as
location, size, shape (formal or non-formal design), materials (liner, concrete
etc), and the need for oversized filtration (gravity fed/pump fed etc) and a
power supply. A vital consideration for a healthy pond is choosing a suitable
location. Try and choose an area that is of south/west aspect and which is in
medium shade, receiving approximately 4-6 hours of sunshine per day. An
unshaded north facing garden is far from ideal. Ensure the site is not directly
under the shade of trees as falling leaves, and the invasive root system of
some species can become a problem. Sufficient area must be left for a large
filtration system (with a size at least 1/3 the surface area of the actual
pond), and this is an area that shouldn?t be overlooked in the haste to
construct the pond. A filtration system cannot be too big but it can cause a
lot of problems if it is too small! Experts are always on hand at your local
Maidenhead Aquatics to discuss your options when it comes to filtration for the
koi pond. Other aspects to think about are whether you wish to incorporate some
form of waterfall or fountain, which will aid aeration during warmer days. Once
the pond has been constructed, it should be filled with dechlorinated tap water
(rain water is unsuitable for the first fill as it lacks the necessary
minerals). Marginal plants such as irises can be grown at the sides of the pond
if provision is made during the building for some shallow shelves around the
edge. Koi tend to uproot much plant life in deeper areas through their natural
browsing of the bottom of the pond in their search for food items. Rocks would
need to be placed towards the front of the shelves to prevent the koi from
getting at the marginal plants and harming them. The rocks will also hold back
the planting medium and stop it from entering the pond, whilst still allowing
the passage of a small amount of water to keep the plant roots nice and moist.
These type of plants can be a valuable aid in helping to remove nitrates from
the water (although there is no substitute for powerful filtration). There are
koi-resistant planting containers that allow plants such as lilies to be grown
in the deeper areas of the pond. The wide leaves will provide welcome shade for
the fish on really sunny days. Try to change approximately 10% of the water per
month (rather than just topping up) with dechlorinated tap water, as this will
help to reduce nitrate and replace essential minerals. Water should be tested
on a weekly basis as this will alert you to the first sign of any problems. UV
clarifiers can help if green water becomes a problem; although koi do actually
enjoy this type of environment (browsing for the tiny animals that eat the
algae), it can look a little unsightly and make viewing the fish difficult. Not
only will this spoil your enjoyment, but any koi that might have injured itself
or is suffering from parasites, for example, will remain hidden from your
attention. Ensure that you do not overstock your pond, making sure you allow
for the eventual size of your koi, and always quarantine new purchases.



Good quality pond flakes (for smaller koi), pond pellets,
pond sticks, frozen/live foods etc. Prawns, earthworms, and lettuce are all
good treats to be fed now and again. As the water temperature cools down in
late Autumn, a lower protein wheatgerm-based food should be fed.



Spawnings will occur naturally in the pond if sexually
mature males and females are present, where conditions are to their liking
(water quality, water temperature, light levels etc), and where there is a
medium such as mops/ropes/brushes where the eggs can be scattered. However,
many spawnings go unnoticed as the eggs are often consumed quickly by the
parents and other fish in the pond (and even other predators such as dragonfly
larvae, snails, and tadpoles). To ensure survival of the eggs/fry, the aquarist
will usually have to intervene, collecting the eggs before they are devoured,
and keeping them in a spacious container with pond plants and some continuous
form of gentle oxygenation. The eggs typically hatch within 4-5 days, and the
fry will feed on their yolk sacs for the first few days, after which time a
constant supply of small live foods such as infusoria and daphnia will be
required. Koi, of course, can be selectively bred in separate breeding ponds if
the aquarist is fortunate to have access to this type of set-up. In this
scenario, the water of the breeding pond should match that of the main pond,
and it should be lined with spawning ropes and the like. A well-conditioned
selected pair can then be added and observed regularly for signs of spawning.
Once the eggs have been deposited over the spawning medium, these can be
separated from the parents and grown on in an independent container as
described above.